A Big Little Recipe has the smallest-possible ingredient list and big everything else: flavor, creativity, wow factor. Psst—we don’t count water, salt, black pepper, and certain fats (specifically, 1/2 cup or less of olive oil, vegetable oil, and butter), since we’re guessing you have those covered. This week’s recipe is as little as can be.
This guide to Turin and the three recipes included come from the new cookbook, Tortellini at Midnight (Hardie Grant, 2019), by Emiko Davies, who you may know from her column and almost 200 recipes on Food52. We’re big fans of her Bucatini all’Amatriciana and Torta Caprese—so we’re beyond thrilled about the sweet treats that follow.
Piedmont’s capital, Turin (Torino, to Italians), is a little jewel of a city. It’s noted, among other things, for its Baroque architecture, cinema, and the Fiat factory. It was also Italy’s first capital, and the birthplace of the Risorgimento cultural movement, which was led by Count Camillo Cavour, a Turin native. The city sits along the Po River, with the Alps in the background—a position that led renowned architect Le Corbusier to call it the place with “the most beautiful natural location.”
There’s certainly nothing wrong with a store-bought Passover dessert, but that’s not your only option, even if you’re pressed for time amid all your other holiday preparations. We’ve got 13 recipes for desserts that are both delicious and Passover-appropriate—chocolate-drizzled coconut macaroons, flourless cake, homemade sorbets, and more.
Rye is far from being a common base for gin, but there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be. Rye was used in early recipes for the drink that became genever, and much Polish vodka has traditionally been made from rye. As gin is made from a neutral spirit, i.e. vodka, rye is a perfectly legitimate base from which to make the spirit. It’s just that not many people do.
St. George Spirits from California first made some exceptionally fine vodkas, including a powerful Chile Vodka, and later branched out into other spirits, including two previous gins. This is the first made from rye, however, one of only a handful of rye gins available.
It’s a delicate balancing act, as juniper has to be predominant, of course, but rye provides an equally dominant aroma and flavor. The distillery gets around that by adding 50% more juniper than goes into their other gins, along with black peppercorn, caraway, coriander, grapefruit peel, and lime peel.
The result is a pleasingly complex nose, especially those of us who don’t like gins that are overwhelmed by juniper. The rye and black peppercorn provide an obviously peppery counterpart to the juniper, while there are pleasing citrus aromas in the mix, with a dash of salt and some vanilla sweetness. Overall the effect is of an intriguing and unusual blend of gin and whiskey.
The effect is repeated, and then some, on the palate. The juniper seems to step back even more, and the flavor of rye whiskey steps forward. The lime and grapefruit are both evident, as is the fact that it’s 90 proof rather than the more usual 80. This extra-strength is especially evident on the finish, which is where the eastern spiciness comes more to the fore as well.
Gins aren’t typically made for sipping, but this one certainly offers plenty to savor. It’s even better in a cocktail, making a top-notch gin and tonic and a remarkably good twist on a Bloody Mary.
A / $35 / stgeorgespirits.com
Here is how to make a perfectly poached egg, every time! With creamy yolks and firm whites, poached eggs are a breakfast on their own. You can also serve them over greens, topped with Hollandaise, in a grain bowl, or dozens of other ways.
Try to buy a whole salmon side or filet that is from the thickest part of the fish. For taste and texture reasons, many people prefer to remove the skin of the salmon. We definitely recommend skin removal if you are preparing wild-caught salmon …