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When Hannah Bae was a young girl, she’d wake up in the middle of the night to the sound of feet shuffling and cabinets opening in the kitchen. Midnight raiders (her brothers). As long as there was gonggi bap, leftover white rice at the bottom of the cooker, the hungry boys would find a way to prepare themselves a late-night snack—topped with a fried egg, perhaps, or wrapped in gim (roasted seaweed snack), or just on its own, alongside some kimchi hanging out in the fridge. Hannah loved rice’s versatility, its chameleon-like ability to absorb and bring out other flavors.


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