Happy May! It's Asian Pacific American Heritage Month. All month long we've got recipes, stories, and long reads to celebrate the generations of Asian and Pacific Islanders who make America what it is today.
I noticed there was a shift. I started seeing Shin Ramyun everywhere in New York City—drugstores, supermarkets, and even corner bodegas. In a local dollar store in Washington Heights, I watched a girl rush out of line (“Will you save my spot?”) to grab a couple packs of the stuff, flashing a smile at me as she returned with the red squares, “I’m obsessed with these.”